Lake Arenal and Volcano
Cheese making is all very good and what an experience but we were about to meet the Costa Rica renowned for its diverse flora and fauna. Costa Rica is home to around six percent of the world’s species – a whopping 500,000 recorded species. Over 25% of the country is designated national park and these are covered with a variety of giant trees, creepers, strangler figs, mosses and ferns. There are orchids everywhere alongside colourful bromeliads and grasses. Over 860 different species of native birds flit in and out of this habitat. Sloths, howler monkeys, spider monkeys and a number of lizards and frogs make the forest home.
An orchid in the Arenal foothills, Arenal Volcano from La Fortuna, a coati (racoon family) and waterfall in Arenal NP
So off to La Fortuna we went. This small town northwest of San Jose is in the foothills of the Arenal Volcano and associated thermal area. It is a tourist mecca for animal and bird watching, river rafting and hiking. The volcanic activity gives the area a number of thermal springs where the lava-heated water gushes from the earth. These have been harnessed into pools and waterfalls providing a relaxing way to wind down after a tiring hike. We visited the 70 metre high La Fortuna waterfall and swam below in its refreshing waters. Then a two hour hike around the base of the Arenal Volcano amongst the birdlife and forest that surrounds the mountain. The volcano at over 1,600 metres is one of seven in the country that have been active and in 1968, unexpectedly, it erupted burying the nearby village of Tabacon. Legend has it that an the elderly lady refused to leave her home on the nearby lake and went down with the ship so to speak. True or not sadly there were a number of deaths. Arenal remained active until 2010 and has been rated one of the ten most active volcanos in the world.
An arduous hike like that deserved a night out and ironically that evening Scout and I had one of the best pizzas we have eaten in an Italian restaurant. Pizzas seem to be a big deal in Costa Rica. On asking the answer came from Costa Rica’s large Italian community. Italian immigration into the country started in the 1880s when Italian railway workers were encouraged by jobs on the emerging rail system Later in the early 1950s farm labourers arrived from Italy and built the Costa Rican cattle industry. Around 7.5% of the population here is of Italian descent. Pizza topped off with some delicious shiraz was the perfect end to a lovely day.
A Red Tailed hawk, Superwoman, Superman, a hummingbird and Scout enjoys the La Fortuna Waterfall with the Leedsys
In 1951 a group of Quakers from Alabama, ostensibly fleeing conscription in the US emigrated to Costa Rica. They cleared forests in the mid north of the country and established pasture for dairy farming. To the country’s benefit these were environmentally aware settlers very conscious of the dangers of unrestricted farming in this lush and unique region. They established a small wildlife sanctuary which has since grown into the internationally renowned Monteverde Cloudforest Biological Preserve. More than 2,000 species of plants, 320 bird species and 100 different types of mammals thrive in Monteverde. Following a very pleasant hours boat ride across Lake Arenal with the volcano as a backdrop we had three charming days here. Monteverde town is a thriving tourist spot with hotels, motels, lodges and backpacker units surrounding the town centre. Cafes, restaurants and tourist shops share the two main streets with adventure tour companies and local businesses. Our hotel about five minutes walk from town is pleasant and shares a side road with the music pumping F45 Gym next door and a cabinet maker across the road. We arrive and have lunch at the local soda. A soda in Costa Rica is a small family run restaurant generally serving traditional Costa Rican food. My delicious hamburger doesn’t really fall into this category but I need fortification for the afternoons activity – Ziplining. Scout opted for her usual “casado” or rice and beans as I call it. Scout has decided the staple suits her as she can be a sort of vegetarian but add fish or chicken if needed. The 100% Aventura Zipline features seven ziplines, two superman lines and a Tarzan swing. The first Superman is one km long – I think the longest in the world. Woohoo. Scout and I did them all until Scout and a couple of others in the group saw sense when confronted with the Tarzan swing. It features a 40 metre straight down drop before the rope kicks in (and it kicks in hard) and the fool on the end swings out and back several times in a Tarzan like manner. Loud swearing and frightened yelling is allowed.
That night we did the guided night walk through rainforest. As many creatures come out at night this two hour tour with torches is a great way of spying on the wildlife as it goes about its evening foraging. We saw an armadillo at its evening meal, a toucan on its night perch, green tree snakes, lizards and various birds at rest. We possibly saw a sloth but it could have been burr high up in the tree! The early mornings here are misted and heavy with dew but the days are stunning and turn into pleasantly cool evenings perfect for a wine or beer in an outdoors restaurant of which there are many. Monteverde really is a “cloud forest” and attracts some 70,000 visitors a year. The area is quite beautiful and unique and we feel so privileged to share it with its Costa Rican people.
The rarest of sights…. a Quetzal in Monteverde Cloudforest Biological Preserve
One side note before we head for the coast and the town of Quepos. We did a lovely walk through the Cloud Forest Preserve. Again numerous bird species played in and out of the trees and a hummingbird sanctuary was a delight. To watch these tiny creatures feeding from midair with wings just a blur is truly an event. Did you know some species of hummingbird flap their wings up to 5,000 times per minute. No? Me neither. Also a hummingbird is the only bird that can fly backwards. Who would have known? But even better we saw a Quetzal. Quetzals are only found in Central America and southern Mexico, are strikingly coloured green and red, with a long tail plumage. They are also very private and and not often seen. Some of you might know I have become interested in birds in Australia as we have a large variety around the area where we live. To see a Quetzal though is a coup. As Nick says “My ornithologist friend Raoul (who has written books) says that is one of the five iconic species to see. Do you really think you are worthy?.” Ouch!
Kayaking in Quepos, a Capucin monkey and yes, finally a Sloth
Quepos is a seaside town on the Pacific Ocean. Tourists come here to be beside the sea and sample the nightlife. We enjoyed a great night out with the group and a wander around the town. Kayaking and catamarans are the tourist venture here and Scout and I had an enjoyable morning kayaking and snorkelling. Getting in and out of a kayak to snorkle on the reef is not the easiest thing and I blotted my copybook by falling out of our double kayak and taking Scout with me. She still maintains she has a broken rib. But the reef fish were great and surprisingly friendly. The highlight though was the trip to the nearby resort town of Manuel Antonio and its adjacent national park. We had a fabulous guided tour through the park seeing sloths (real ones this time), howler and spider monkeys, numerous capucins, several toucans and lizards, frogs and butterflies galore. This really was Costa Rica flora and fauna on show at its best. I cannot stress enough the advantage of putting one’s hand in the pocket and paying for a guide in these situations. The guides are local, educated and committed to ensuring everyone understands the beauty and diversity of this country. And we have. We spent the afternoon swimming in the Pacific Ocean in the warmest and clearest blue waters one could possibly delight in.
After one more slap up dinner with the group in Manuel Antonio and a hairy public bus ride back to Quepos we had a final day in San Jose before flying back to Boulder. Scout and I prefer to make our own way when travelling but as age catches up this time we decided to take the easier route of a tour. We met travelers doing their own thing and enjoying it but Costa Rica lends itself to group tours and we thoroughly enjoyed ours – with a great group of fellow travelers and a lovely guide in Racquel. This was our first group tour and Intrepid did us proud.
