Nous Retournons a la ou nos Coeurs Appartiennent

“But I always knew

I would live life through

With a song in my heart for you,,,,,,,”

song from the musical “Spring is Here” by Richard Rogers and Lorenz Hart

Quick tip for you would be travellers – do not travel to the south of France in August. It is teeming with holiday makers and temperatures are soaring – 38, 39, 40C. And not much relief at night. Whew. It is the height of summer and the European mid year break after all. But we spent nearly seven of the most wonderful years there and needed to return. We were embraced and taken into the homes of some of the nicest and kindest people. Twelve years later it is time to explore this beautiful part of France and these delightful relationships again. Change, of course, is inevitable and people move on in their lives. But sometimes things remain the same. Jackie has had a stroke but he is still the lovely bear of a man we always knew. Dominique is still more concerned with others than she is herself. Her life is busy but she still has that spirit that endears her to everyone. They welcomed us into their home as if it was 2011. Elva and Valentine have left Chateau Unang to forge their own lives but James and Joanna still make wonderful wine and enjoy their French lifestyle. James was kind enough to show us around the Chateau surrounds where we lived and worked for seven years. It was like returning home. Joanna had to be in England but arrangements were made and we have a lovely reunion to look forward to in Scotland.

And Fabrice. What can we say about the kind and gentle Fabrice. He met us at Nimes airport, allowed us use of his apartment in Villeneuve-les-Avignon and along with friends Cathy and Sylvain entertained us with dinners and advice. We cannot thank them enough.

Centre ville – Villeneuve-les-Avignon La vieille ville

Some people say provincial France doesn’t change. Well it does – slightly. Malemort-du-Comtat, our old village has a new pizza restaurant after all. The garage where we found the original Mr Gato has been replaced by a sort-of supermarket although the plane trees still line the main road out of town. The bar at Methamis seemed the same although it did have a freshly painted sign. There seemed to be a new spring in its step. Maybe it was just sheer excitement on our part.

We flew into Nimes airport via Ryan Air which for once was tolerable. Fabrice whisked us to his apartment in Villeneuve-les-Avignon where we had a wonderful four days. We explored the old town and revisited Avignon only 200 metres across the Rhone. This really is tourist town and while its history is immense exploring it with hundreds of others is fatiguing. Time to go country.

From December 2005 we lived and worked at Chateau Unang. Our employers James and Joanna King bought the Chateau and surrounding vineyards a few years before and have spent the past twenty years turning it into a highly respected producer of red, white and rose wines. We turned our hand to most things with Scout generally occupied with the house and young children and me the gardens and general jobs both around the Chateau and in the vineyards. It was with some trepidation that we returned to the place where we had enjoyed such a wonderful time. We need not have worried. James and Elva welcomed us warmly and we spent a nostalgic hour wandering the land and revisiting old memories. The vines were lush with fruit just waiting for the harvest in September. To listen to Jame’s views on the future of wine and winemaking was fascinating. From the decline in wine appreciation of the younger generations (is it all just premixed drinks now) to the effects of climate change it was thought provoking.

Dinner with old friends – Dominique second right, Jackie at rear in blue shirt Avignon and le Palais du Papes

We spent a very enjoyable week with Dominique and Jackie which gave us time to explore the region again. Mazan, Mormoiron and Methamis (remembering old times with my brother Nigel and partner Sue). Bedoin, St Didier and Perne-les-Fontaines, These ancient Vaucluse Valley villages that sit at the foot of Mt. Ventoux don’t appear to have changed in centuries. L’isle sur la Sorgue and Carpentras still the thriving market towns of the region. We enjoyed the small village of Jonquerettes where Sylvain and Cathy hosted us for a wonderful and long evening meal in typical French style. The iconic walled towns with “la centre ville” of old stone buildings tumbled on top of each other abound but now newer homes on olive and citrus tree covered sections surround them. They exist alongside suburbs of modern stone homes on small sections near industrial and large shopping centres. Unfortunately a bit like the real world. What a pity.

We caught up with Regine our coworker and la femme de menage at her home – she is now retired with grandchildren. We spent an hour or two with Elodie our French teacher from those days. She was just as patient and lovely as when we spent those hour long sessions stumbling over “les mots Francais” and conjugating impossible verbs. We were nervous but to Elodie’s credit we remembered passable French and survived most outings amongst the locals. With some trepidation we revisited the “classroom” and it was with some relief that Florian and their now teenage daughter Mila joined us. Such fun and such memories. But good times must end and we, sadly said goodbye with promises to not wait eleven years and visit again soon. This time we mean it.

Next time … over the Vaucluse Mountains and a few days with the pop stars in the Luberon Valley then back to the UK.